Marglin on Taste

IN MY LAST column, we focused on port. Up the Douro River from Oporto, Portugal, where almost all port is made, across the Spanish border, the same river is called the Duero, and along the Duero grow the greatest Spanish grapes that make the greatest Spanish wines. Spain has, essentially, three main wine regions: Penedes/Priorat, all the way east, bordering on the Mediterranean Sea; Rioja, its most famous region, in the center of Spain; and, just to the west of that, the Ribera del Duero region, certainly one of the most improved and exciting wine regions in the world. Immediately west of the Ribera del Duero region is the newly named Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León region, which is, for all intents if not purposes, the same as the Ribera del Duero.
Twenty years ago, the Denominacion de Origen (like many wine countries, Spain has official regions demarcated geographically) was established for the Ribera del Duero region, and when its wines got hot, the rest of the Spanish winemakers sat up and took notice. For most of the past century, Spain clung to tradition, and for the most part its wine were stuffy and a bit musty tasting, with different agendas between the grape-growers and the winemaking cooperatives or Bodegas (Bodegas are the companies, often family-run, that own the wineries: they do not, however, always own the vineyards, and must rely on deals with vineyard owners). Now, however, everyone seems to be pretty much on the same page, and while some traditions are respected, most of the winemaking is “New World” style, emphasizing fruit and new oak, with wines meant to be consumed early, and brimming with flavor. All of the regions mentioned above are making exciting red wines. I also like the premier white varietal from Spain, albarino, which works incredibly well with spicy seafood dishes, and Cava, Spanish sparkling wine. Both have a high acidity, and for inexpensive wine, they sure make seafood taste good.
The main Spanish red grape is tempranillo, which flourishes only in Spain, where it goes by many names, including Tinta Fino, Tinta del Pais, Tinto de Toro, etc. Like its white counterparts, it too is known for its refreshing acidity, which makes it a good companion for spicier foods. Tempranillo is redolent of wild strawberry and cherry flavors, mixed with elegant spices and some tobacco notes. In the Ribera del Duero region, tempranillo is sometimes blended with cabernet and/or merlot. In Penedes and the Priorat, one gets garnacha (grenache), carinena (carignane), and even some fine cabernet. Many Spanish wines can be had for less than $20, and some of the best $20-$30 wines in the world these days come from Spain; for less than $20, there are but a few wines I have enjoyed, most notably the Abadia Retuerta Rivola (a blend of 60 percent tempranillo and 40 percent cabernet: nice and fruity). For under $10, with the exception of a gamy Priorat from Onyx, I have not tried many Spanish wines worth writing home about. (If you have suggestions, by all means send them in.) [TW: Sometimes recs go in the body of the column when ther eis not so much to say about a wine, but it is still worth mentioning: in this case as exemplars of what exists under $20/$10]
Across Spain, the focus of winegrowers is on lowering yields (whereas once grape growers were paid by the ton) to make more intense, fruity wines. Although there are still wood-aging requirements for Spanish wines before they can be labeled Crianza, Reserva, or Gran Reserva (Crianza and Reservas must spend at least one year aged in oak, usually American oak, while Gran Reservas must spend at least two years aging in oak barrels), many winemakers now want their wines ready to drink immediately upon release.
1994, 1995, and 1996 were three stellar years in a row. 1997 was a bit of a bust, but 1998-2001 all appear to be very good to excellent. Prices have not risen much since 1999, and by and large, many Spanish wines are comparatively undervalued. While it was the case until about 1996 that all one could find locally were Riojas (the Wine Cask in Somerville was an early leader with these), now, in Massachusetts, thanks to Jorge Ordonez (by all accounts the leading importer of Spanish wines), there is a plethora of fine Spanish wines available, many in our under-$30 sweet spot. Indeed, most stores carry a good selection.
While I find Spanish reds in the New World-style quite versatile, both tempranillo and albarinos work best with spicier “Spanish-style” foods, including Southwestern dishes. The Priorat fruity wines, based on Garnacha, are the most versatile, of course, and they go well with pizzas, burgers, and the like. I had a 1996 Ribera del Duero with caribou fajitas recently, and it was a revelation. One might even make the case that Spanish cuisine and its derivatives are, in essence, crafted to fit their wines. Some might counter that this is a chicken-and-egg thing, but the kinds of wine one can create are extremely limited by regional factors, whereas when it comes to cuisine, at least nowadays, there is far greater flexibility. Therefore, it seems to me that if you are going to plunge into these exciting Spanish wines, you might want to make an effort to drink them with Spanish “” or at the very least Mediterranean or Southwestern “” cuisines.
If you do, my guess is you’ll be able to escape the doldrums of winter, because let’s face it, part of the charm of Spanish is that it almost never gets too cold. Siesta, anyone?

1997 Torres Gran Sangre de Toro Reserva Penedes

Brimming with fruit, most poignantly raspberries, this garnacha, mourvedre blend verges on “bomb”, but stops short of that.   Perfect with spicy Southwestern cuisine, but light enough for swordfish or an ahi tuna taco.

1996 Valduero Ribera del Duero Reserva

Smoky and fat, but with a friendly fruit layer, somewhat plumy, maybe some stewed cherries, too.  Very sensuous, soft mouth-feel, best with lamb, or elk, or any gamy red meat.

1996 Marques de Arienzo Rioja Reserva Bodegas Domecq

Mass-produced, but from a solid vintage, most tasty, with lots of berry flavor, none too dark or woody.  Serve with a savory beef dish, or spicier chicken, even chorizos.  A bargain at around $16.

1997 Allende Rioja

Lighter and broader, less oak, very wild strawberries, with a pleasant, peppery finish.  Punchy enough for either a spicy paella or a zesty marinara or Bolognese sauce over pasta.

1999 Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero

A find!  Dense and chewy, lots of rich chocolate, black currant, and tobacco, plus loads of oak.  A dense, intense wine, that will do better with age, but with an hour of air can go a long way.  Must serve with beef or something fatty enough to absorb some of those tannins (which will mellow nicely with age).  A producer to watch in coming years.

Many people don’t realize that port is actually a kind of wine “” fortified wine, to be exact. That’s because it’s rarely served with food. In this country, wine is paired with food; more than 70 percent of all wine consumed is drunk with a meal. But port “” when was the last time you saw someone order port with anything other than dessert? And even then, it goes with only a limited number of desserts, such as chocolate and other heavier items.

Relegated to the ” after dinner ” world, port does not always receive the respect it deserves as one of the world’s finest wines. And it’s true that many vintage ports (i.e., from a particular fine year) are extremely expensive, ranging from $40 and up for a bottle to $20 a glass at a good restaurant. It’s also quite sweet, somewhat sticky, and not to everyone’s taste. Some folks, given limited exposure to port in any of its manifestations, wonder why it’s important.

Let’s start with the basics. Port is made in Portugal, and is usually shipped from the town of Oporto, which lies on the Atlantic Ocean at the mouth of the Douro River (the same river is called the Duero in Spain, and runs through the Rioja and the Ribera del Duero wine regions). Port as we know it was first made because English seafarers realized that the fine Portuguese wines they loved would travel across the ocean better if they were spiked with a bit of brandy; now, of course, this fortification process, which also sweetens the wine and generates its high alcohol content, is the essence of port. Vintage port usually improves with age, and can last for more than 100 years; other ports, once bottled, do not improve therein.

Port is crafted by a handful of ” houses ” “” including Dow’s, Warre’s, Graham’s, Fonseca, and Sandeman, among others “” many of which are owned by the British, who for hundreds of years have helped make and market the wine (per capita, they still drink the most port). Production is now controlled by a body known as the IVP, which, in 1974, began requiring all port to be bottled in Oporto (it had previously been shipped in barrels and then bottled at its destination). ” Bottle-aged ” port followed the introduction of taller bottles that were easier to lie down on their sides, which allowed port to be stored and aged in sealed bottles (superior to barrels for this purpose).

Vintage ports generally reach their prime after about 20 years. The English have taken a particular fancy to port, but in this country, the beverage has not developed quite the same following. Generally, all the major houses will declare a particular good year ” vintage ” ; they make this declaration three times per decade. On three occasions in the last century, there were back-to-back years of such quality that some houses declared one year to be vintage, while others declared the next. Even in non-vintage years, many excellent ports are often made.

The other major category of port, aside from bottle-aged, is wood port. These, too, are fortified with brandy, and come in three distinct styles: ruby port, aged in wood for many years, but remaining quite reddish in color; tawny port, usually aged in wood at least 10 years and sometimes as long as 40, making it lighter and browner; and white port, which resembles vintage except that it’s made with white grapes and is usually served chilled as an apéritif or cocktail before dinner. Twenty-year tawny ports are some of my favorite after-dinner drinks; I find them to be lighter and more versatile than vintage ports. They taste of toffee and chocolate, but with complex spices. The best are not cheap, but at $10 to $12 a glass, they are well worth the price.

Perhaps the most important thing to know about port is how to deploy it properly: it should be served either with dessert or just afterward, as it makes a wonderful segue from dinner to subsequent entertainments. And while connoisseurs may gurgle and coo about vintage ports, I think you’ll find that even basic port, like the Warre’s Warrior or your basic LBV (short for ” late-bottled vintage ” and generally less expensive than regular vintage) are interesting, complex wines, with hints of coffee, licorice, and chocolate. I find port conducive to sharing (a few sips are usually all I need), and it seems very civilized not to rush after a fine repast, but to relax, have a glass, and unwind.

While port-style wines are now produced around the world, including in Australia, California, and South Africa, all true port comes from multiple estates (and vineyards) in Portugal. Some single-vineyard ” Quintas ” are also gaining renown and esteem. In these harsh winter months, if you have the time and a few extra coins in your pocket, why not have a delicious, soothing glass after a satisfying meal?

1985 Dow’s Vintage. Yowza! A chocolate-coffee-toffee powerhouse, with restraint, a tightly wound core of rich berry fruit, and a slight hint of anise on the finish. Despite its power and focus, it should be versatile enough to pair with a chocolate cake, a tarte Tatin, or even a pear dish with some crème anglaise.

Fonseca 20 Year Tawny. Toffee and coffee notes, very subtle and bewitching, with all kinds of wood flavors (cedar, oak, pine). I even get a hint of Queen Anne cherry. Accompanies non-fruity desserts, but also worth drinking on its own as dessert.

Two predictions for the world of wine this year: consumers will be more price sensitive (i.e., they’ll spend less and expect more ” bang ” for the buck), and they’re going to appreciate the limited significance of ratings, making the ” scores ” received by wines less meaningful. As a result, other numbers may count more.

You’re probably already aware of some important numbers. First there’s price, which actually involves three numbers: the distributors’ price, the wholesale price the importer/distributor charges the retailer, and the retail price you’re charged (which of course is different in stores than in restaurants). As I’ve mentioned before, different wines have different profit margins, which means retailers and restaurateurs have biases that go beyond their specific tastes. Though you won’t normally know what the profit number is, believe me “” it often affects what gets recommended to you.

The second number, and the most dominant (and, in my opinion, the most overrated), is a wine’s ” score. ” Often this is the number that Wine Spectator or Robert Parker (who is the Wine Advocate), the two most influential raters of wine, have given a particular bottle. This score reflects the tastes (and biases) of those doing the scoring. Enologix, a wine-consulting company in Sonoma, claims it can predict scores simply by measuring the presence or absence of certain compounds in a given wine. It sounds so futuristic: without even tasting a wine, the analysts know how good it will be just by looking at its chemical composition. But regardless of who assigns a score or how the number is arrived at, it’s only useful if your taste happens to coincide with the taste of the scorers. If you think your taste might differ (and I would assert that people’s tastes vary widely), then knowing the official ” score ” won’t really help you in determining quality.

The number of cases produced also matters. This is not required label information in the US, and it’s often a difficult statistic to track down. But how much of a particular wine is made affects its availability, price, and the kind of marketing push it gets (which I believe can affect its ratings). A number that shouldn’t matter so much, but does, is the year. Year 2000 wines, especially Bordeaux, will cost more simply because of the powerful associations with that year. And far too often, people expect good wines to be made only in ” good ” years, when in fact well-made wines from less-than-stellar vintages offer some of the best wine values around. While I love drinking ‘82 Bordeaux and ‘90 Burgundies as much as the next aficionado, I derive special pleasure from a great ‘78 Margaux or a ripping ‘97 red Burgundy from Volnay.

I’ll throw in a bonus number: trends of varietals consumed. Industry insiders care that people are drinking more syrah and pinot noir, and you’ll likely see more of these wines available, at affordable prices, in the coming year because their numbers are now ” up. ” Add in these various figures, and you realize that even if the math sometimes gets a little fuzzy, numbers make the (wine) world go ’round.

Here are a few wines that I would score highly.

1998 Storrs Petite Sirah Santa Cruz California. Fleshy and voluptuous, but not over the top. Quite round, actually, and primed for steak or beef, but with a little chill; could work well with a robust chicken dish. Packs a bunch of black fruit and a judicious oak smack.

2000 Beaulieu Vineyard Zinfandel Napa Valley California. Bold and assertive, ripe and jammy, with lively, classic zin flavors. The year 2000 was phenomenal for Napa zin, and this is one of the first I’ve tasted, boding well for a bevy of new releases this year. Round and plummy, sumptuous with brisket, venison, or a burger.

1998 Vina Sastre Crianza Ribera del Duero Spain. Not the best year, but a beautiful wine nonetheless, showing dark and handsome fruits; mysterious, with Bing cherry explosions and a full oaky finish. New World-style, but classy and elegant all the same. Great with chorizo stew, a funky pesto-potato pizza, or roast chicken.

1994 Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Gran Reserva Spain. Balanced, with medium alcohol (13 percent) and fruit concentrated in the center. Tempranillo, but again, a New World wine (unusual for Rioja) showing why Spain is probably the most ” up-and-coming ” wine country in Europe these days.

Peter Rumball Sparkling Shiraz Australia. Deep red color, refreshing and flavorful. A wine I come back to often for its finesse, its pizzazz, and its versatility. Drinks well by itself, but can accompany almost anything. I like it with pizza as much as with Thai food. Like a sophisticated grape soda!

2000 Landmark ” Overlook ” Chardonnay Sonoma/Monterey. Chardonnay still rocks my world, especially when it has all this pineapple and citrus, with a deft use of oak to give it backbone. Perfect with Chilean sea bass, Thai-grilled red snapper, or even chicken.

2000 Honig Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley California. I like the regular better than the reserve, though both are good in this vintage. It tastes of pineapple and lemon, zesty, with a touch of that grassy effervescence I love. Great with Dover sole or raw shellfish.