Marglin on Taste

When Americans think of wine, we tend to think of France, or our own burgeoning industry (especially the West Coast’s). But Italy, where wine may well have originated, is viniculture’s first nation. It produces more wine and consumes more per capita than any other country.

Italy is also one of the most exciting wine spots on the planet right now. To get a sense of wine’s importance to Italy (and Italy’s importance to wine), take note: the country, where wine has been made for several thousand years, has more than 1000 documented varietals and 900,000 registered vineyards, as well as 20 distinct wine regions and 21,000 wineries.

Impressive numbers “” but numbers alone don’t tell the whole story. For Americans, wine is a beverage, and yes, it does go well with food. In Italy, wine is food. And the complexities of a given wine are often revealed when it’s properly paired with the combination of flavors that unlock its (sometimes hidden) treasures. Italian wines inspire passion.

What makes wine so important to Italians? For one thing, grapes grow everywhere, and the microclimates throughout the country’s mountainous and hilly terrain help fine-wine grapes ripen properly. Italians have vast experience with their land, and with certain grapes, methods, combinations, and styles.

For more than three decades, Italy has been experiencing a wine renaissance. ” Supertuscans ” “” wines that do not conform to the regime of classifications “” were one of the biggest breakthroughs. The first Supertuscans came from Villa di Capezzana in Carmignano, where cabernet was artfully blended with merlot and/or sangiovese “” Tuscany’s main red-wine grape, the primary component in Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino. Sassicaia, the second Supertuscan, made since the 1940s, is a rough cabernet that started to impress internationally in the 1960s. In 1971, the renowned Antinori family made a Sassicaia based on sangiovese, but with no white wine in the blend. (Most Chiantis include white wine to make them more approachable.) Now more than two dozen renowned Supertuscans exist, all of which command prices over $30 and compete with the world’s finest wines.

But Tuscany, while perhaps Italy’s most visible wine region, is not necessarily its most impressive. That honor goes to Piedmont, in the north, home of the nebbiolo powerhouses Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as the Barberas d’Asti and d’Alba, Asti sparkling wines, and the low-alcohol frizzante Moscato d’Asti, one of my favorite summer beverages. Piedmont reminds many wine folks of Burgundy; both regions focus mainly on a single red varietal (nebbiolo in Piedmont and pinot noir in Burgundy) not normally blended with other varietals and often difficult to make.

Don’t try to make sense of Italian wine labels; you need a degree to figure out the producer, the varietals, the region of origin, etc. Indeed, one of the things that makes buying Italian wine so difficult is that you can’t rely on shortcuts that work with wine from other countries. Because Italian winemakers have such vastly different styles and attitudes toward modernization, it’s not enough to say, ” I like barberas or Veronese wines. ” You need to focus on producers, years, regions, and varietals. Now is a great time to try Italian wines; the last five years have all been either good or great, prices have essentially flat-lined, and wine stores and restaurants have stocked up. Be adventurous, and look to a passionate wine person for guidance.

Italians love details, and they love their land. As a result, many wines are named after specific spots on the hills where the grapes are grown: bricco means the sunniest part of a hill, while sori is the south-facing place where snow first begins to melt; one of Italy’s most famous and delicious white blends is called Ronco delle Acacie (made by Jermann), which means ” hilltop of the acacias. ” Appropriately, Italian wines have finally made it to the top of the world’s wine hill.

Zardetto Prosecco Non-Vintage Brut. This crisp and fruity sparkler, redolent of apples and lemons, is a wonderful refresher for under $10. Goes well with fruit, super-sharp cheese, salade niçoise, or spinach and bacon.

1998 Salice Salentino Taurino Apulia. This easy-drinking red blend (80 percent negroamaro, 20 percent malvasia nera) is smoky and fat, with plums and a raisiny taste. It’s a fun, round, smooth wine, great with garlicky red sauce or salty carpaccio or other antipasti.

1999 Nero d’Avola Morgante Sicily. Sicily is a major up-and-coming wine region, and this oaky and sweet fruit-bomb is reminiscent of a grenache, a zin, or an Aussie shiraz. Superb value. Perfect accompaniment to pizza, burgers, or an Italian grinder.

1999 Ripasso Zenato Valpolicella. Big, ripe, bold, slightly sweet, but stops short of ostentatious. This is a wine that loves lamb chops or wild boar pappardelle, because the black fruit wants a big, fatty meat flavor to open.

1999 Allegrini Valpolicella Classico. Fruity and smooth, this easy-drinking accompaniment to pasta Bolognese or spicy sausage has blackberries and a long finish.

1996 Cavalotto Barolo. Big nebbiolo, not yet fully developed, ardent and sensuous, but perfect with a veal saltimbocca or a filet mignon with béarnaise.

1995 Zardini Amarone Valpolicella. Sweet but not syrupy, cherry, dense, and chewy, almost a meal unto itself. Great with a jambalaya, spicy pork chop, or a meatball dish with your mama’s Italian ” gravy. ”

If you live in the United States and you love wine, it’s probably only a matter of time before you give in to the urge to visit wine country, usually defined as Napa and Sonoma Counties in California.

Now, I have nothing against Napa, home of those huge cabernet sauvignons and monster chardonnays, plump merlots and powerful zinfandels, most of which carry big price tags. It’s a nice place to visit: crowded on weekends, but you get to taste lots of impressive wines in attractive wineries.

For a long time, Sonoma was ” the other valley ” “” as in, not Napa. Its wines were inferior, and hence cheaper. It did not have the marquee names or the cachet associated with Napa, which had Mondavi and Opus and history.

But Sonoma has come into its own. Across the varietal board, the region produces wines competitive with Napa’s finest. So when you plan to visit wine country, I say you’ll have a better time and get more bang for your bucks in Sonoma.

At the valley’s northern end, you’ll find the towns of Geyserville and Healdsburg. As far as I’m concerned, Healdsburg, a town of less than 10,000, is the unofficial wine-country capital. It has the most charming town square, ringed by quality restaurants and quaint shops. These two towns have more than 50 wineries between them open for your tasting pleasure. Here, I’ll focus on two: Pezzi King and Simi.

Founded in 1993 by the Rowe family, Pezzi King has come a long way over the last decade. The tasting room is beautiful, set on terraces overlooking some of the vineyards. And you can’t fake the family thing: everyone here is friendly, knowledgeable about the wines, courteous, and eager to pour and please. The red wines, especially the zinfandels and cabernet sauvignon, receive more attention, but I very much enjoyed the white wines, especially the sauvignon blanc 2000 (labeled fumé blanc) and 1999 Sonoma County chardonnay. The 1998 cabernets show a lot of promise (and 1998 was not the best year for cabernet), and I was blown away by the barrel samples of 2001 zinfandel. Look for those to be released next February.

Simi Winery was founded in 1876 in San Francisco and then moved to Healdsburg in 1881. It continued to make wine during Prohibition, when only the sale of wine was illegal. When Prohibition finally ended in December 1933, the Simi folks not only threw one hell of a party, they also planted a grove of redwood trees around the winery, where you can picnic today.

Simi’s tasting room was Healdsburg’s most impressive when it was built in 1973. Although the winery was purchased in 1999 by the Canadian wine conglomerate Constellation Brand, it has retained its homespun feel. The extremely friendly tasting-room staff knows its wines and history, and Simi’s tour may well be Sonoma’s best.

So when you go to California wine country, take it from the top: start in Geyserville and Healdsburg and hit a handful of wineries (you needn’t visit more than five in a day). You too may wind up calling Healdsburg the capital of wine country.

2000 Pezzi King Fumé Blanc North Coast. Called North Coast because 48 percent comes from nearby Mendocino County, while 52 percent comes from the Alexander Valley (which encompasses both Mendocino and Sonoma), this tropical-pineapple sauvignon blanc has a plump gooseberry finish, strong in the mid palate. Its clean flavors would complement halibut or a Dover sole or cod.

1999 Pezzi King Zinfandel Old Vines Estate Dry Creek Valley. Plenty of Bing cherry and big alcohol (15.5 percent), balanced nicely by the American and French oak. This wine, with its layers of complexity and long, smooth finish, could someday become a cult classic. It’s restrained for a big zin and would work well with prime rib or short ribs, or even a flavorful barbeque T-bone steak.

1999 Pezzi King Pinot Noir Russian River. Sonoma is becoming known for its pinot noirs, and this wine shows why. Soft and supple, understated but elegant, with ample strawberries and raspberries and a hint of creaminess on the finish. Great with seared ahi tuna or a spicy pork chop.

1999 Simi Sendal Sonoma County. This is Simi’s reserve sauvignon blanc, cut with 22 percent sémillon (as are many fine white Bordeaux) and aged in new French oak. The sémillon shines through, balancing out the acidity of the sauvignon blanc. Vanilla and pear notes complement the racy tropical flavors and make this a wonderful companion to a spicy fish, paella, or oysters on the half-shell with mignonette.

2000 Simi Chardonnay Sonoma County. Made with 100 percent malolactic fermentation and judicious use of new oak, bridled apple, and pear flavors, along with some tropical notes. A touch of nuttiness on the finish. Great with a pecan chicken or any nutty fish dish.

1999 Simi Shiraz Sonoma County. A blend of 90 percent syrah and six percent petit verdot (the remainder is cabernet) makes this taste zesty and plump. ” Shiraz ” suggests a certain fruit-forward style, plus loads of American oak. Round and quite versatile, it should flatter anything from red meat to a spicy gourmet pizza. Huge finish.

1997 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Alexander Valley. At $75 a bottle, this is pricey, but you can taste a glass at the winery for a few bucks. You won’t want to spit this wine, with its thick and opulent berry flavors. A powerhouse, big muscles inside a shimmery velvet dress. Depth, complexity, balance, and charm. You might want to bring some cold red meat with you, just to round out the experience.