Marglin on Taste

Wine is about quality. But, like the film industry, on some level it’s also about marketing. In the early ’80s, a bunch of California winemakers, distraught that Americans were neglecting the Rhône varietals they loved, started collaborating, sharing information as well as vine cuttings, fruit, and winemaking facilities. They called themselves the Rhône Rangers, and they set about trying to bring honor and acclaim to the so-called Rhône varietals: syrah, grenache, mourvèdre, and carignane (the primary reds); and viognier, roussanne, and marsanne (the primary whites). As a fine-wine region, the Rhône Valley had long been overshadowed by Burgundy to the north and Bordeaux to the east. But in the mid ’80s, Robert Parker, who had yet to become the world’s premier wine critic, began touting Rhônes as the next big thing. Parker was right.

Those clever, maverick California winemakers “” including Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat, Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon, Adam Tolmach of Ojai, Bill Crawford of McDowell Valley Vineyards, Bob Lindquist of Qupe, and Joseph Phelps and Gary Eberle (and their eponymous wines) “” met informally. Soon, the wine press took notice and gave them that catchy Rhône Ranger moniker “” and, over time, the cachet to cash in on their dream.

Their dream, of course, was for syrah and the other Rhône varietals to stand on equal footing with cabernet and chardonnay. In 1997, the Rhône Rangers became an official group; its current president, Bill Crawford, believes that the dreams of the late ’80s are finally coming to fruition. The Rhône Rangers have more than 130 member wineries, and a second wave of Rangers includes the likes of Craig Jaffurs, Andrew Murray, and John Alban, whose wines are hot right now.

Crawford cites plenty of telling statistics. Looking at syrah as a kind of leading-edge indicator, he notes that 10 years ago, there were 867 acres of syrah grown in California. In 2000, this was up to some 12,700. In 2000, a total of 505,000 cases of syrah were sold in the US (including shiraz, domestic syrahs, and imports). In 2003, Crawford predicts that more than 4.4 million cases of syrah may be produced in this country. That’s astonishing growth “” partly, of course, as a result of improved marketing.

A few weeks ago, I was lucky enough to attend the annual Rhône Rangers tasting in San Francisco, with 125 wineries and several hundred wines on hand. Rhône varietals take well to blending, which allows the winemaker to influence the wine more than any single varietal. The versatile Rhône blends tend to work well with a vast range of food flavors. While the original Rangers and the second wave are now fairly well established, there are a lot of newcomers who bring a passionate and experimental mindset.

Certainly not all the wines I tasted were great, but across the board, there was much to like. While 1998 was a difficult year in much of California, 1999 and 2000 were both excellent vintages. The red Rhône blends tend to be fruity and assertive, but with great depth of flavor. The whites are often floral, also fruity, with viognier reminding me of apricots, while roussanne and marsanne are more reminiscent of mandarins and almonds (or other nutty flavors) on the finish. Indeed, some herald viogniers as challengers to the dominance of chardonnay. But while they make a nice and refreshing alternative, I don’t see chardonnay being knocked off its perch as the leading varietal “” red or white “” in the US anytime soon.

Still, since Rhône varietals aren’t as well known as the other fine-wine grapes, they’re remarkably affordable. So you’ve got passion, excitement, versatility, and affordability: what’s not to like?

Crawford makes an excellent case in point: his McDowell Valley Vineyards has been around since 1978 (and received its own American Viticultural Area designation in 1982). Currently, it makes about 18,000 cases of Rhône varietals, but over the next few years, Crawford plans to double that number. He says one reason for the success is his old vines, but another is that Rhône varietals are adaptable to many growing conditions. He also thinks that the fruitier Rhône wines appeal to many palates, and they do drink well young, which is important because most restaurants and retailers don’t want wines sitting around.

So whether their success is due to their quality, versatility, or newfound marketing savvy, ultimately it doesn’t matter: these are wines whose time has come. Try some, and you may taste that rugged individualism infusing the Rangers’ blends. Hi-ho, Silver, and away!

1999 Le Cigare Volant Bonny Doon California. One of the first Rhône blends to gain prominence, its name was chosen because of the French law prohibiting flying saucers (flying cigars) from landing in the vineyards. It’s out of this world, celestial and versatile, laced with layers of fruit, plum, red currants, and loam. About equal parts mourvèdre, grenache, and syrah; can run the gamut from tuna sashimi to porterhouse steak.

1999 Novy Syrah Sonoma County. From an up-and-coming winery, this grapey, grippy wine packs a wallop of fruit flavor, mostly blueberries. It’s on the cusp of a bomb, but would be sumptuous with a beef stew or orange-flavored beef.

1999 Jade Mountain Mourvèdre Contra Costa County. Wild and woolly, it’s hippin’ and hoppin’, popping with plum, blackberries, and a mossy redwood finish. Good with pork dumplings or chicken with cashew noodles, but lots of foods will love it.

Sometimes it pays to state the obvious. Cabernet franc, as the name implies, is a particularly French varietal. But you probably don’t drink much of it. How do I know? Well, it’s so remote from the leading red-wine varietals sold in the United States that there aren’t even many meaningful statistics on it. I can tell you that the volume of American wines featuring cabernet franc is extremely low, although this number is increasing (and many Meritage blends have some cab franc in them, though only as a small percentage of the total composition of the wine). Still, cabernet franc, starring as a leading varietal, makes for one of the most interesting red wines.

Along with sauvignon blanc, cabernet franc is now thought to be one of the parent grapes of cabernet sauvignon. It originated in France, the country that remains the most devoted to it, and comes to life in two regions with distinct approaches. First, in the Loire Valley, delightfully light Chinons, Bourgueils, and Saumur-Champignys are made; though they can age 10 to 20 years, they’re usually best in their youth, two to five years from harvest. These full-yet-versatile wines taste of cherries and raspberries, with smoky, gamy flavors. Usually priced under $30 a bottle, these are true value wines. Most good wines stores will carry at least one or two, and while some say they’re an acquired taste, at these prices, they are a taste well worth acquiring.

Second, in Bordeaux, cabernet franc is one of the five main grapes. Most often it comes third in use, well behind cabernet sauvignon and merlot. An exception to this is Cheval Blanc, one of the world’s greatest reds, which is usually at least two-thirds cabernet franc (and one-third merlot). Because of the region’s terroir and how the wine is blended and aged (in new oak), Bordeaux cab franc tends to be somewhat softer, less bright, more woodsy, with tobacco and cedar notes as it matures.

Outside France, only the US focuses much attention on cabernet franc. Here, the grape is just starting to catch on; I predict that eventually it will vie with merlot, syrah, pinot noir, and zin for second place after its progeny, cabernet sauvignon. In Napa, there are more than 100 wineries making cabernet francs, usually in extremely limited quantities. Winemakers love it, as it produces soft wines with depth and focus that are more approachable than cab sauvs or zins. Washington winemakers have taken a fancy to it, too, and some of the best I’ve tried are from the exceptional 1998 and 1999 vintages. Some West Coast wineries I spoke to are extremely bullish about its future.

Unfortunately, cabernet franc gets little mainstream recognition. Wine freaks like me know and love it, but no one is really pushing it; you’ll find only a few on any wine list or in any wine store, and if you blink, you’ll miss them altogether. But there are so many good ones that I can pretty much recommend them all.

Still, although you want to get recommendations (see below, or talk to your retailer or wine professional), you also need a good reason to try cabernet francs. Here are three: 1) it’s one of best varietals no one is drinking, so you can be ahead of the curve; 2) the lack of marketing makes for plenty of good values; and 3) these ” easy-drinking ” and approachable wines are very soft and versatile, which means you can drink them with a lot of different foods, to which they will stand up quite well. The Loire Valley renditions will go well with a number of fish dishes, or even a bit of citrus (in moderation), so they can accompany a dressed salad. The more ” Bordeaux-esque ” renditions go well with red meats, like lamb or steak frites. They all tend to have ample fruit, but none are too sweet, so cab franc ” fruit bombs ” are rare.

These wines, like so many things in life, are better appreciated when you leave your inhibitions behind. Not only will you be blown away by the refreshing newness of cabernet franc, your derring-do will likely impress your friends and romantic interests alike. They’ve worked well for me.

1996 Villa Mt. Eden Cabernet Franc California. Sensuous and voluptuous, this wine’s a fickle mistress, yielding her fruit languidly and sporadically. The core of dark cherries carries through the oak, so this wine would flirt well with spicy beef and broccoli or a nice pad Thai.

1999 Georis Cabernet Franc California. Smoky and soft, soigné, yet easily gulped. Great with cheese by the beach, or with filet mignon by the fire. Mainly Monterey (made in Carmel), it’s fairly forthright and friendly, but still stylish, elegant, and austere.

2000 Bourgueil L’Echellerie Guy Saget Loire. Cheap and churlish, this is the light Loire extraordinaire, with smoke and delicate oak. Try it with franks and beans, chili, or barbequed-chicken pizza; all highlight the tomato and cherry flavors.

2000 Domaine des Hautes Troglodytes Pierre Plouzeau Saumur-Champigny. Soft, ultra-light, it goes with white meat or even a flavorful fish (such as Arctic char or John Dory). Hard to pin down its fruit, but dried cherries and cranberries come close. Delicate finish, so pair with caution.

1999 Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley Washington. Lush and long, wondrous dark fruit, creamy oak. I’d marry this with prime rib and horseradish sauce, or with a teriyaki stir-fry or yakitori.

may not know much about cabernet franc, but chances are you’ll like it